Applique Work-Pillow

Patchwork 

Patchwork in different shapes and size appear on many early American quilt. Even today it is a fashion

. This particular one is based on the eight-point Lone Star design. It will brighten your sitting room or study room. If you are using simple patchwork, plan your design on a paper with pencils before beginning your work.

Materials 

• Tracing Paper
• Thin Card
• Blue velvet Fabric or any type of fabric
• 12.5 x20cm/5x8 in peach velvet fabric
• 12.5x20cm/5x8 in light green velvet fabric
• 20x40cm/8x16in backing paper
• Tacking (Basting) thread
• Matching sewing thread
• Dried herbs or cotton 
• Button
• Pencil
• Scissors
• Dressmaker's Scissors
• Ruler
• Needle 
• Iron
• Dressmaker's pins 

Procedure to make a patchwork sachet:

Trace diagonal, square, and triangle shaped designs. Cut eight diamonds, four squares and four triangles on a thin card. Use your templates to trace the correct number of shapes onto the lengthwise grain of each fabric. Add a (6mm)¹/₄ inch seam  allowance and cut out four light green and four peach diamonds, four blue squares and four blue triangles from fabric. Cut the backing paper of the same shape of the templates. Place these backing paper of each shape, turn the joint over the paper, folding at the points, tack in place.

Stitch one piece of peach and green diamond together along one edge, then sew a  blue square at a right angle. Make four of these units and join together all these units in such a way that the square pieces comes at the four edges, so that it looks like a star. Sew the blue triangles on to the remaining spaces to complete the square. Iron lightly and remove all the tacking threads.

Cut a 19cm/7¹/₂ in square from the remaining blue fabric and iron a 5mm/¹/₄ in seam evenly all round. With wrong sides together, pin this square to the patch work and overstitch around the outside edge leaving a 7.5cm/3 in gap on one side. Fill with herbs or cotton and sew up the opening. Finish off by sewing a button to the centre of the star.

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Machine Embroidery-Simple Machine Applique

Simple Machine Applique Most machines nowadays have buil-int, programmed stitches. Use these to full effect with lustrous embroidery threads and a few satin ribbons to enhance any project.

instructions   To applique a ribbon or braid: Stabilise the fabric by placing either Calico or Stitch ‘n’ Tear underneath. Set the machine to zig-zag or choose from other built-in stitches. Adjust the stitch size to desired length and width. Lay a length of ribbon or braid along the fabric. Fig 1 Lower the pressure foot over the far end of the ribbon (either centrally or over one edge). Stitch through all layers to hold the ribbon in place. Fig 2 Try a variety of different coloured ribbons and stitches to create colourful effects. u get many more from here...

Machine Embroidery-Cording

Cording Using even the most basic sewing machine, you can achieve interesting surface effects. This looks like a fine thread laid on the surface of your fabric ideal for outlining or fine lettering.

instructions   Fig 1 Tighten the top thread tension, thus pulling the bobbin thread through the fabric, thus showing both threads on the top surface of the fabric.  Fig 2 Set the stitch length to the minimum so that the top thread is completely covered by the bottom thread when stitching thus making the appearance of a cord lying on the surface of the fabric. Fig 3 Try working layers of spirals, using tonal shades.  This creates a wonderful texture – ideal for landscape details. Suggestions: Try using thicker top threads such as a Anchor Pearl 12’s – these will automatically tighten the top tension, due to their relative thickness in relation to the gap in between the tension wheels (adjust needle size to suit such as 100 or 110). Try working more over one spot to create raised bobbles in the stitching. Try working with thicker bobbin threads on a looser woven fabric. Try working with a fine, uneven thread on the bobbin to create areas of thick and thin. u get many more from here...

Machine Embroidery-Free Machine Embroidery

Free Machine Embroidery Free machine embroidery is achieved by dropping the feed dogs and fitting an appropriate foot (darning/free machine embroidery) to the machine (see your sewing machine manual). By dropping the feed dogs the machine loses the ability to move the fabric under the foot, and the stitch length setting is of no consequence. Free machine embroidery involves producing a stitch by simultaneously running the machine and moving the work around. Imagine the work surface to be a piece of paper and the machine needle to be a pencil. Instead of moving the pencil to draw, move the ‘paper’ allowing the needle to draw on the fabric surface. The foot leaves a gap between the plate and the foot through which the work can move easily. The length of the stitch is determined by how quickly, or slowly, the work is moved, combined with how fast the machine is run. Running the machine quickly and moving the work slowly results in small stitches. Running the machine slowly and moving the work quickly results in longer stitches. The direction in which the stitches run can also give texture to a piece of work.   u get many more from here...

Machine Embroidery-Machine Cording

Machine Cording Once you have completed your project, you may want to make some fastening cords or ties. Here is a simple way to create your own cords, using your sewing machine.

instructions   Gather a selection of fine knitting yarn, cord, crochet cotton, etc. Cut threads and yarns to desired length. Knot one end and gently twist the lengths together. Fig 1 Set the machine to a wide zig-zag stitch. Thread top and bottom threads with toning shades as both will be visible. Place the knot of the threads behind the lowered presser foot. Start to stitch slowly. Hint You may find that you need to help the threads through at the start, as they may not engage with the feed dogs. u get many more from here...

Quilting -How To Create A Hexagon Template

How To Create A Hexagon Template We do not always have a protractor to hand. This simple technique shows how to create accurate templates using only a compass and ruler.

materials required Sharp pencil Pair of compasses Ruler Craft scissors instructions Templates for English piecing are cut to the “finished” size of the fabric hexagon section i.e. excluding seam allowances. Fig 1 Using the compass, measure along the ruler to half the width of template required. Fig 2 Now draw a circle. Do not alter the compass setting.  Place the point of the compass on the line of the described circle and draw another short line intersecting it.  Place the point of the compass on this new point and draw another line.  Continue all round outer edge. Fig 3 Using the ruler, draw straight lines between the points to create your Hexagon Template. u get many more from here...

Quilting- Free Machine Quilting

Free Machine Quilting Free Machine Quilting is achieved by dropping the feed dogs (or covering them with a special plate) and fitting a darning or quilted foot to the machine. By dropping the feed dogs the machine loses the ability to move the fabric under the foot, and the stitch length setting is of no consequence. Free machine quilting involves producing a stitch by simultaneously running the machine and moving the work around. Imagine the work surface to be a piece of paper and the machine needle to be a pencil. Instead of moving the pencil to draw, move the 'paper' allowing the needle to draw on the quilt surface. The darning foot leaves a gap between the plate and the foot through which the work can move easily. The length of the stitch is determined by how quickly or slowly the machine is moved, combined with how fast the machine is run. Running the machine quickly and moving the work slowly results in small stitches. Running the machine slowly and moving the work quickly results in longer stitches. The aim is to find a combination that produces a recognisable stitch length.   u get many more from here...

Quilting -How To Baste Fabrics

	How To Baste Fabrics Keep layers of fabric in position when working your quilting projects by following this very simple technique. It takes very little time to do, but you will achieve a much better professional finish.
materials required   Traditional English quilting requires a sandwich of fabrics comprising: 1: Top layer (the decorative, visible layer) 2: Middle layer of wadding 3: Backing layer to stabilise the design (usually of plain cotton or Calico) instructions   When working English quilting, these designs can be quite large.  It is therefore easy for the fabrics to shift and become out of position and this will result in a distorted design. Fig 1 To remedy this, work a grid of basting stitches (large running stitches) both horizontally and vertically along the fabric, no more than 10 cm (4”) apart as shown in diagram. This will keep the fabrics together throughout your project. u get many more from here...

Sewing-How To Use Prym Bias Bars

How To Use Prym Bias Bars Prym Bias Bars are a must for anyone who does lots of “Stained Glass Window” patchwork. They create bias strips which do not fray or become mis-shapen. A great time-saver and so simple to use.

instructions Prym Bias bars are used to make Bias Binding suitable for Appliqué techniques such as Stained Glass Window patchwork.  They come in five different widths and are heat resistant.  The width of each bar is the final width of the completed bias strip. To make your bias strip, first choose the appropriately sized Bias Bar. Fig 1 Cut a strip of fabric at least 3-4 times the width of the Bias Bar (this makes it easier to manipulate - the excess fabric can be cut off later).  With right side of fabric facing outwards, fold in half lengthways down centre (shown by red dashed line) and press lightly.  Fig 2 Sew a seam so that the distance from the folded edge to the seam is the same width as the Bias Bar (shown by arrow).  Trim seam allowance to less than the width of the Bias Bar. Fig 3 Take the Bias Bar and insert the rounded end into the tube of fabric.  Thread the fabric along the Bias Bar as far as possible, keeping the fabric smooth. Fig 4 Turn the fabric on the Bias Bar so that the seam lies centrally (see arrow).  Using an iron, press firmly along the strip flattening the seam allowance.  If making a long strip, thread the Bias Bar farther along the tube, slipping the pressed section off the other end and repeat the procedure. The Bias Strip can now be sewn to your project. u get many more from here...

Aplique Work...