Materials Needed:
Bootie Socks
This entire pattern will be worked in the round.
1: ch 2 and place 6 sc into the 2nd ch. (6 sc)
2: place 2 hdc in the next st, which is the 1st sc you made. Use piece of yarn in a contrasting color as a marker. Place it throught the FIRST hadc you made. THIS will become your 1st stitch for the beginning a new round. Continue placing 2 hdc into each of the remaining 5 scs. (12 hdc)
3: place 2 hdc into ea of the 12 hdc around. Make sure you continue throughout, until otherwise directed, to remove the marker, at the beginning of each round, replacing it after you have made the NEXT round’s first st. (24 hdc)
4: 2hdc in the marker st, remember to replace marker in the 1st st of this round, and then work (1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st) around to the last 4 stitches. Place 1 hdc into ea of the last 4 sts. (34 hdc)
5-17: 1 hdc in each st around, remembering always to keep moving the marker so you do not lose your place. (34 hdc each round) *Note-if you need to make smaller or larger bootie socks, add round here or decrease the number of rounds, as needed. The best way to adjust this for size is to measure one round of your hdcs and refigure accordingly, to fit foot. Example, you will add 1 0r 2 rows here for a size 9 or 10, and then for a size 5 or 6 you would SKIP 1 or 2 rounds here. (34 hdc)
18: 1 hdc in the next 15 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the remaining 16 sts. This will add 2 stitches to the round, at the top of your arch.(36 hdc)
19: 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts, 2 dc in the next st, 1 hdc in the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, 1 hdc in the reamining 16 sts. This adds another 2 stitches to the round, at the TOP of your arch.(38 hdc)
20-21: 1 hdc in ea st around. (for size 7 skip one round. For larger than size 8, add one more round) (38 sts)
22: hdc in next 18 sts, slip stitch into the NEXT stitch. Ch 1 and TURN. (38 sts)
You will now begin working in ROWS and have no more need of the marker. This will now form the foot’s opening.
23: 1 hdc in the turn st and in ea of the next 29 stitches. Do NOT work the final 8 stitches. Ch 1 and turn. (30 hdc)
24-25: Dcrs over next 2 sts, hdc in next 28, Dcrs over last 2 sts, Ch 1 and turn. [To Dcrs (decrease): YO and put hk into 1st st, pull up st, YO and put the hk in NEXT st, YO and draw up a st, YO and draw through ALL 5 sts on hook.] Row 24 leaves you with 28 sts. Row 25 leaves you with 26 sts. Ch 1 and turn.
26-30: 1 hdc in ea st, ch 1 and turn. (size 5-6, skip a row here. For larger than size 8 add 1 or 2 rows depending on size needed.) (26 hdc) Ch 1 and turn.
31: hdc in next 8 sts, (Dcrs over next 2 sts( 5 times) by following method; Yo place hk in next st, pull up a loop and draw thru 2 loops, YO, place hk in next st, YO and draw up a loop, draw through all 5 sts on hk.) 1 hdc in ea of the last 8 sts. (16 hdc sts and 5 dcrs groups, totalling 21 sts) Ch 1 and turn.
32: 1 hdc in ea of the next 5 sts, (Dcr over the next 2 sts)2 times, Dcrs over the next 3 stitches [this is done as the Dcrs previously, except you will be doing it over 3 sts not 2, and so you will pull yarn through 7 sts on the hk instead of just 5], (Dcrs over the next 2 sts) 2 times, 1 hdc in ea of the last 5 sts. (10 hdc, 4 dcrs 2 groups , and 1 dcrs over 3 group..totalling 15 sts) Ch 1 and turn.
33: 1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, Dcrs over the next 2 sts, Dcrs over the next 3 sts, Dcrs over the next 2 sts, 1 hdc in the last 4 sts. (8 hdc sts, 2 Dcrs over 2 st groups, and 1 dcrs over 3 sts, totalling 11 sts) Ch 1 and turn.
34: SC in the next 4 sts, Dcrs over the next 3 sts by picking up a st in each of the next 3 sts and pulling up and loop through ALL 3 sts, 1 hdc in the last 4 sts. (9 sts total) Ch 1 and turn.
SL ST HEEL: Fold the right sides together and slip stitch through BOTH sides. (4 sts) Ch 1 and then slip stitch back to the TOP via the inside ONLY of the heel, not through the entire slipper.
WORKING THE TOP EDGING: 1: Place 14 SC evenly down the left side of the slipper with the right side facing you, working in the ends of the rows. Split a SC over the last end and into the first st of the skipped st of the 8 at the opening. To do this, pull up a loop through the LAST end st, then place hk into the 1st skipped of the 8 sts, then pull up yarn through all 3 sts. Sc in the next 6 stch and split sc st in last st across opening and 1st side st, on opposite side of the shoe. Work 14 Sc evenly up this remaining side and sl st to the 1st SC. (36 SCs) Ch 1. Do NOT turn, but work around, with Right side still facing you.
2: Sc in ea of the 36 sts around. Sl to 1st sc. Ch 1. Do NOT turn.
3: Sc in ea of the 36 sts around. Sl st to 1st sc.
CUFF: 1: For a solid color bootie, all you will do now is ch 17. Place Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, and a sc in ea of the remaining sts. (16 sc) Slip st intp the NEXT 2 sc on the edge of the shoe top, which is Round 3. TURN
2: Sc into Back Loop Only to make the ribbing! The back loop will be the loop farthest from you. Sc into each of the 16 sts, Ch 1 and turn.
3: Sc in BLO of the 16 sc sts, sl st into the next 2 sts on round 3.
Note: You will CH 1 ONLY at the TOP of each row and NOT on the bottom edges which Slip st into the topp of shoe.
You will repeat round 2 and 3 until you have sl st into the LAST 2 sts on Round 3. Work the LAST row of SC into the 16 sts up toward the top. Finish off and then sew through the BLO to complete the cuff.
If you desire a 2 colored bootie, you can work the first 5 ROUNDS and the cuff in a contrasting color while working Rounds 6 through to the Last round of the top of the shoe, finishing off then and going back to the color used on first 5 rounds by sl st into ANY st along the top of Round 3. For my booties, as in the pic, I made ONLY the cuff in contrasting color, but they really look neat, and more like a sock, when you also do the toe in a contrasting color.
This cuff will be 2 inches when folded over. If you wish a larger cuff, simply CH more SC when you begin the cuff.
ENJOY! Happy Crocheting!u get many more from here...
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